Who is Celler Frisach?
Celler Frisach is owned and operated by the Ferré family, who has been growing grapes in Corbra de l’Ebre (D.O. Terra Alta, South East of Catalonia) over 200 years.
Francesc, the eldest son of the family leads this project from 2005.
Why I like Celler Frisach?
Because I can see that the family and Francesc are working very hard to show its origin Corbera de l’ebre in wine. Its nature, extreme climate, Panal soil and people are all blend and make Frisach’s wines colourful and dynamic.
Origin - Corbera de l’Ebre, Terra Alta
D.O. Terra Alta is located in the west end of Catalonia province and makes border between Catalonia and Aragon municipalities.
When I visited Frisach for the first time, Francesc took me to the old village of Corbera which is on right behind the new village.
No one lives in the old village, since it was devastated by airstrikes during Spanish Civil war (1936-1939). The new village is just under the old village because people could see what would happen when they disobeyed the Spanish government leaded by Franco. Today, the old village is reformed a small art gallery. In every corners, there is a piece of art dedicated to the peace in order to remember the cruelty and sadness that the war brought to the village and its people.
Frisach’s top red “Sang de Corb” is homage of the village and its history. The wine is made with Vernatxa Negre and Carinyena. Sang = blood of Corbera. The wine is dedicated to the people who suffered and had terrible experience during the war. The blood of people of Corbera.
A part from the old and new village, there is a on Iberian ruin outside the village. It used to be a co-working space for Iberian people, who was living before Romans.
Corbera del Ebre has lost its importance and life after the war. The family’s aim is to recover and re-vive the village and area.
Francesc Frisach
Francesc, son of school teacher and vine-grower, is fighting to protect the village and its identity. He follows organic farming method and partially biodynamic philosophy. He selects clone of traditional grape type from his old vineyards, such as Vernatxa Gris, Vernatxa Blanc and plants in his now vineyards. Francesc describes himself “grape-grower (vigneron)”, but not winemaker despite the fact that his wine La Foradada is selected one of the six “The Essential Wines” by Jon Bonne (“The Insider’s Guide to Orange Wine”). Frisach family has been caring their vineyards, nature of Corbera and producing high quality grapes over generations. Francesc confirms that the fundamental of making quality wine is growing healthy and balanced grapes. Family owns total 20ha of farm. Main variety is “Vernatxa”, in local language and Garnacha / Grenache internationally.
“I am a son of Corbera. The land scape, air, people and the history of Corbera are in my wine.”
Francesc is restless person. He looks after his family vineyards, makes wine, promotes his wine and is always thinking how to protect the history and call attention to his village. Because he loves his place, people and its biodiversity .
Wines
Celler Frisach sends you clear message through wines - “Corbera”
L’Abrunet white, rose and red are blend of grape varieties and vineyards. White is blend of Vernatxa Blanc, Vernatxa Gris. But family harvest 50% of Vernatxa blanc in July and 50% in the end of September in order to combine fresh aroma and happiness and reopen fruit aroma and structure.
I had a chance to taste L’Abrunet Red 2018 from a tank and it was amazing. Pushed up to the next league. The problem of wines from Terra Alta is alcohol and balance. Terra Alta means High Land in Catalonian language. Hot and dry summer and cold and dry winter. Two strong winds hit the village constantly; cold wind from Pyrenees in autumn and winter and dry - hot wind from Sahara desert in summer.
Naturally sugar (alcohol) level gets high and easy to loose fresh aroma. Traditionally wines of Terra Alta was use to make a wine more structured and powerful. This year, Francesc made this red like rose, which mans very short maceration just before fermentation. The colour of the wine is lovely purple red and aroma of summer berries. On palate, it’s fresh and well balanced. “You will finish a bottle without noticing it. Because it is so fresh and calmed. If you used to drink a bottle of wine with your friends, now you will open two”.
My favourite wine is La Foradada. This white wine is made like red wine, which means the juice is fermented with skin. This type of wine is called Brisat in Catalonian language, orange wine in English, and it is a traditional wine making style in Tarragona area. Due to a long skin contact, the tannin of grapes is extracted more in wine and that protects wine from oxidisation. La Foradada is made with 100% Vernatxa Blanc and without additional SO2. Lovely citric (mandarine) and tropical fruit, structure and clean on palate. I think the personality of Corbera (Terra Alta), such as ripen fruit, structure, freshness from soil and altitude, is very well expressed in this wine.
Vernatxa Gris
There are only 3ha of Vernatxa Gris in Terra Alta and Frisach family owns 2,5ha of this. Vernatxa Gris is a pink skin grape and it shows very pale colour of wine. This grape variety is grown in South France, Emporda and Westend of Tarragona. It is not a mayor grape type of anywhere, however there are some good wine producers who are showing a special interests in this grapes for its potential and unique aroma.
The family bought this 50 years old vineyards, the highest point of Terra Alta from an old farmer who was about to take all the vines off and sell the land to someone. Because he was too old to look after the vineyard.
The plot is located about 450m above sea level, right beside the windmills to generate electricity - altitude and strong wind; very Corbera.
The soil type is Panal. The lower layer is calcareous + clay and top soil is sand brought by the two winds; one from the Pyrenees and another one is from Sahara desert. The sand soil is a key factor of freshness and expressive aroma and the second soil conserves humidity and keeps the vines alive under such an extreme climate.
Francesc produces a special wine with this grape. Vintage 2016 was sold exclusively to Canadian importer. Vintage 2017 was blended to 3 Porcs, because there weren't enough grapes to make a single grape wine. Vintage 2018 seems amazing. Pale and soft pink colour, balanced, humble but with strong personality.
I personally enjoy tasting pink skin grapes, such as Cartoixa Vermell (Xarel.lo Vermell) of Penedes, Garnatxa Gris and Carinyena Gris. It is very difficult to find single grape wine of these varieties. In order to make wine with personality with these grapes, you need control its yield and keep it really low. Otherwise the wine will be blent and watery. However, when the grape is grown under a good condition, wine shows exotic flavour and lovely colour.
Celler Frisach has partnership with Uncharted wines (UK) and Winelab (Ireland).
