ENRIC SOLER Vins Blancs

Who is ENRIC SOLER?

I met Enric Soler in 2001, just after my arrival in Barcelona. 

One of my objective was to find a wine tasting course and start my connection to wine.

A friend of mine who is food journalist told me that “if you want to learn properly, there is only one place in Barcelona; Vini-fera”. 

This small and selected wine class was run by Enric Soler. 

Enric is one of the high profile sommeliers. He became the best sommelier in 1999 and winemakers used to ask his opinion before blending and launching the wine.  

All the classes of Vini-fera were fascinating. Enric selected wines that one couldn’t afforded, not only for the price, also for accessibility. 100% blind tasting. Some wine were send by winemakers directly who were willing to hear Enric’s honest (sometimes harsh) opinion and reaction of consumers. I met many now-well-know winemakers there. 

It was very special moment for me to see how Enric analyses wine. 

His tasting was precise, strict, organised and detailed. He was capable to describe every scents and perception of wine. He could see everything in wine and capable to describe it. 

I was attending Vini-fera for 5 years and lost leash (probably because my 1st child was born in 2006).. 

In 2007, I met Enric again. He was giving clases at CETT (Escuela Universitaria de Hostelería y Turismo ), where I took sommelier course. 

He said, “Now I am making wine, too!”. 

New Project

Enric inherited his grand father’s vineyards “Vinya dels Taus” after his loss in 2004 - The plot of NUN. 

At that time he was busy running Vini-fera and teaching at CETT, plus consultancy. But his friends encouraged him to make his wine.

He is consultant of blending. Through his work, he met many talented winemakers. 

These friends, one of them is the top winemaker in Priorat,  told him he should try making wine and taught him how to make wine. He followed the advice. Made his first wine and it was superbe. 

Vineyards

The plot is less than 1ha and beautifully cared - 80yo Xarel.lo in goblet. The soil is covered with plants. The old Xarel.los are real beauty. 

“They are like us. Old people needs special attention and care. It is the same in this vineyards. “

Some wrinkled brunches are supported with stones. Because when they got bunches of ripen grapes on it, it would be too heavy to told by themselves.

Altitude is about 200m above sea level and its soil type is mix of sandy, calcare and clay.

Enric looks after his vineyards following Biodynamic philosophy.  

Clean and bright sun light of May strokes vines. Little sparrows are flying over. 

The plot is located beside C15 road, but it seems like the sounds and time are kept still. 

This place used to be an airfield of Republican’s during Spanish Civil war. Opened, flat and wide.

Right beside is the plot of Impro-visacio. 

Bigger (1.3ha), younger (45-65yo) and cared by the same way. 

Vines are little bit thiner because of the age. But impeccably clean. 

Recently Enric bought vineyards of Parellada right behind plot of NUN and Improvi-sacio. 

(So he made a barricade of Biodynamic farming.)

He would like to graft this 25yo vineyard with Malvasia de Sitges. 

He already owns a small plot of Malvasia on the other side of the road, which will be pulled out and land will be a part of road C15. 

“Well, what we can do? It’s all decided and project is accepted. “ Mediterranean personality appears here. I was worried, thinking “if the road work starts attacking the other side of road? If he is going to loose the plot of Dels Taus, too??” He doesn’t seem worried or be stressed about it. 

“But I already got a really nice plan B”. Then he took me to the vineyard of Espenyalluchs.

Espenyalluchs - Xarel.lo on pure clay soil

It is THE PLAN B. Some vineyards really reach to you in the first sight. 

This small Paraje (plot) is located on north side of a hill in Torrelles de Foix. This area is like a sanctuary for winemakers in Pendes. Altitude, location and presence of nature. 

Taking granted to the altitude (400m above sea level), cava makers used to plan Parellada in this area, but Enric cut bunches of Dels Taus and grafted in this plot 10 years ago.

Lines of vines are facing towards Montserrat mountain with a 10o inclination towards east (perfect). 

Soils is not covered with grasses because slope doesn’t help to retain water in soil, so vines will be suffered too much by lack of water in soil.

The paraje is way from everything; noise, high tension electric wines, pollution etc…

Peace and calm. 

Over 3000 bush vines are planted less than 1ha of plot. Soil is pure clay. The high altitude makes temperature gap big between day and night.

The plot is surrounded by stone wall and woods that tells Enric that the plot was very important for someone before. 

The surface of vineyard follows the slope and there are small gap between vines that makes wine more complex. Depending on the gap, position of pine tree roots, the vines grow differently. 

Cellar

Enric reformed his grand parents’ house to cellar first. Then place to live.

Cellar is attached where he lives and be a part of his life. 

When I stepped in the cellar, I felt as if I were stepping into the atelier of Yves Saint Laurent. 

Elegancy, balance and preciseness. 

Beautifully designed cellar and elegant (posh) machines. Even light that comes into the cellar got style. 

All the wine is single vineyard and single varietal. Vines are cared with biodynamic farming. Detailed, hand made and a lot of effort.

Enric’s tasting ability really makes difference. He knows how to express the vineyards’ potential in right way and with right words.

Nun is fermentad in burgundy oak barrels (50% new and 50% 2/3rd year) and aged in the same barely for 8 months.

Impro-vissacio is fermented in Stockinger Foudre (2000 lit capacity) and aged for 8 months in there and egg formed cement tanks. Espenyalluchs are fermented in 4th year burgundy oak barrels and aged in the same barrels for 8 months. 

Stainless steel tanks are used only for blending.

Wine

Perfection, remarkable balance. 

My conclusion after tasing of Enric’s four wines. 

Expression of four different type of acidity (precept bu different are of tongue), fruit and texture. 

All the wine is made with the same variety and by same person. 

It shows potential of Xarel.lo, if you choose the right viticulture method, type of vats and élévage. 

It tells us that all the difference, such as age and nature condition of a vineyard, vintage are really related to the wine. 

NUN / Beloved son

Nun means mother of a begin. Old Egyptian language and it is a power that produce a begin. 

Nun is very comfortable showing itself. 

It seems like Enric knows almost everything about the vineyards, winemaking, the wine’s personality and ability of expression. 

Confortable, expressive and complex. 

Volume of new barrels, potential. A sphere. 

Impro-visasio 

Like a play or music, it is the best part of live show. 

Influence of oak ballers is very small (Enric use only one foudre of 2000lit capacity).  

A hint reduction note from egg-formed cement tanks. Marriage of calcare soil and old vineyard of Xarel.lo. 

Acidity is more market but very well balanced with juicy fruit note. Agil, straightforward. 

Espenyalluchs 

I can see the emotion and excitement that this plot gave when Enric saw this in the first time. 

Less green note and mineral. But juicy acidity with structure of clay soil. 

Enric uses barrels of 4th-5th year to balance with the age of vineyard. 

Juicy acidity from drier soil (WO green cover), complexity, youth, elegance. 

Istiu

It is coming from “Estiu = Summer” in Catalonian language and when we pronounce this word, it sounds like Istiu. 

Note of mediterranean summer fruit; Apricot, Loquat, Pera de Sant Joan. 

This wine is like a little brother of Espenyalluchs, similar dryness (dry herb), the way to express acidity but cleary I can see the bright white sun light and strong dark shade of mid summer. 

At the end of tasting, I was thinking of one comment of Enric during a tasting session of Vini-fera; Enric confessed that he likes white wine more than red. He was right he showed it.

Celler Frisach, Corbera de l'Ebre

Who is Celler Frisach?

Celler Frisach is owned and operated by the Ferré family, who has been growing grapes in Corbra de l’Ebre (D.O. Terra Alta, South East of Catalonia) over 200 years.

Francesc, the eldest son of the family leads this project from 2005.

Why I like Celler Frisach?

Because I can see that the family and Francesc are working very hard to show its origin Corbera de l’ebre in wine. Its nature, extreme climate, Panal soil and people are all blend and make Frisach’s wines colourful and dynamic.

Origin - Corbera de l’Ebre, Terra Alta

D.O. Terra Alta is located in the west end of Catalonia province and makes border between Catalonia and Aragon municipalities.

When I visited Frisach for the first time, Francesc took me to the old village of Corbera which is on right behind the new village.

No one lives in the old village, since it was devastated by airstrikes during Spanish Civil war (1936-1939). The new village is just under the old village because people could see what would happen when they disobeyed the Spanish government leaded by Franco. Today, the old village is reformed a small art gallery. In every corners, there is a piece of art dedicated to the peace in order to remember the cruelty and sadness that the war brought to the village and its people.

Frisach’s top red “Sang de Corb” is homage of the village and its history. The wine is made with Vernatxa Negre and Carinyena. Sang = blood of Corbera. The wine is dedicated to the people who suffered and had terrible experience during the war. The blood of people of Corbera.

A part from the old and new village, there is a on Iberian ruin outside the village. It used to be a co-working space for Iberian people, who was living before Romans.

Corbera del Ebre has lost its importance and life after the war. The family’s aim is to recover and re-vive the village and area.

Francesc Frisach

Francesc, son of school teacher and vine-grower, is fighting to protect the village and its identity. He follows organic farming method and partially biodynamic philosophy. He selects clone of traditional grape type from his old vineyards, such as Vernatxa Gris, Vernatxa Blanc and plants in his now vineyards. Francesc describes himself “grape-grower (vigneron)”, but not winemaker despite the fact that his wine La Foradada is selected one of the six “The Essential Wines” by Jon Bonne (“The Insider’s Guide to Orange Wine”). Frisach family has been caring their vineyards, nature of Corbera and producing high quality grapes over generations. Francesc confirms that the fundamental of making quality wine is growing healthy and balanced grapes. Family owns total 20ha of farm. Main variety is “Vernatxa”, in local language and Garnacha / Grenache internationally.

“I am a son of Corbera. The land scape, air, people and the history of Corbera are in my wine.”

Francesc is restless person. He looks after his family vineyards, makes wine, promotes his wine and is always thinking how to protect the history and call attention to his village. Because he loves his place, people and its biodiversity .

Wines

Celler Frisach sends you clear message through wines - “Corbera”

L’Abrunet white, rose and red are blend of grape varieties and vineyards. White is blend of Vernatxa Blanc, Vernatxa Gris. But family harvest 50% of Vernatxa blanc in July and 50% in the end of September in order to combine fresh aroma and happiness and reopen fruit aroma and structure.

I had a chance to taste L’Abrunet Red 2018 from a tank and it was amazing. Pushed up to the next league. The problem of wines from Terra Alta is alcohol and balance. Terra Alta means High Land in Catalonian language. Hot and dry summer and cold and dry winter. Two strong winds hit the village constantly; cold wind from Pyrenees in autumn and winter and dry - hot wind from Sahara desert in summer.

Naturally sugar (alcohol) level gets high and easy to loose fresh aroma. Traditionally wines of Terra Alta was use to make a wine more structured and powerful. This year, Francesc made this red like rose, which mans very short maceration just before fermentation. The colour of the wine is lovely purple red and aroma of summer berries. On palate, it’s fresh and well balanced. “You will finish a bottle without noticing it. Because it is so fresh and calmed. If you used to drink a bottle of wine with your friends, now you will open two”.

My favourite wine is La Foradada. This white wine is made like red wine, which means the juice is fermented with skin. This type of wine is called Brisat in Catalonian language, orange wine in English, and it is a traditional wine making style in Tarragona area. Due to a long skin contact, the tannin of grapes is extracted more in wine and that protects wine from oxidisation. La Foradada is made with 100% Vernatxa Blanc and without additional SO2. Lovely citric (mandarine) and tropical fruit, structure and clean on palate. I think the personality of Corbera (Terra Alta), such as ripen fruit, structure, freshness from soil and altitude, is very well expressed in this wine.

Vernatxa Gris

There are only 3ha of Vernatxa Gris in Terra Alta and Frisach family owns 2,5ha of this. Vernatxa Gris is a pink skin grape and it shows very pale colour of wine. This grape variety is grown in South France, Emporda and Westend of Tarragona. It is not a mayor grape type of anywhere, however there are some good wine producers who are showing a special interests in this grapes for its potential and unique aroma.

The family bought this 50 years old vineyards, the highest point of Terra Alta from an old farmer who was about to take all the vines off and sell the land to someone. Because he was too old to look after the vineyard.

The plot is located about 450m above sea level, right beside the windmills to generate electricity - altitude and strong wind; very Corbera.

The soil type is Panal. The lower layer is calcareous + clay and top soil is sand brought by the two winds; one from the Pyrenees and another one is from Sahara desert. The sand soil is a key factor of freshness and expressive aroma and the second soil conserves humidity and keeps the vines alive under such an extreme climate.

Francesc produces a special wine with this grape. Vintage 2016 was sold exclusively to Canadian importer. Vintage 2017 was blended to 3 Porcs, because there weren't enough grapes to make a single grape wine. Vintage 2018 seems amazing. Pale and soft pink colour, balanced, humble but with strong personality.

I personally enjoy tasting pink skin grapes, such as Cartoixa Vermell (Xarel.lo Vermell) of Penedes, Garnatxa Gris and Carinyena Gris. It is very difficult to find single grape wine of these varieties. In order to make wine with personality with these grapes, you need control its yield and keep it really low. Otherwise the wine will be blent and watery. However, when the grape is grown under a good condition, wine shows exotic flavour and lovely colour.

Celler Frisach has partnership with Uncharted wines (UK) and Winelab (Ireland).

Winery San Mamed

Where is Ribeira Sacra?

This D.O. (Denomination de Origen, Spanish appellation system) region is in province of Lugo, south east of Galicia. 
One of the most mythical and traditional vine growing region in Spain. 

Who's winery San Mamed? 

My friend Orly Lumbreras is producing his floral and succlent wine "Vertixe" collaborating with this lovely family owned winery. 

Winery San Mamed is owned and operated by family; Rosa and her husband Jose "the Boss", their daughter and her husband. 

The winery is located in a village called Salgeiro (Quiroga y Bibei sub-zone) near Monforte de Lemo. 

Just in a middle of mountain, as if it is avoiding to have a contact with city, noise and pollution.  

Life style in Ribeira Sacra 

Rosa and Jose are still living in Adega (old cellar) - Their life style is traditional and simple, but very close to the nature of Ribeira Sacra area. Could be too traditional, but it is the life style of Ribeira Sacra. 

The family keeps their pig, chickens, vegetable garden - everything is auto-sustainable 

Their life is 100% 0 additives. No chemical smells or perfumes are present in their life. 

It is simple, clean and very close to the nature. 

Vineyards

It is mythic, silent. Only the sounds of river and birds can be heard. 

The family respects traditional vine cultivation system. 

Family grows only indigenous grapes, such as Mencia, Merenzao, Brancellao, Jerez, Godello...

All the vines are planted on very steep hillsides facing to the river Sil. 

the family do not allow to put caterpillar or cables to pull up boxes in their vineyards. They prefer to walk, carry and touch with their own hands. 

Old terraces of stones and granite and slate soil. Everything is stony here.  

Terraces are surrounded by cherry blossoms, wild flower and greens.  

No pesticide, herbicide or chemical substance have not been applied for long time. 

Some indigenous plants, such as topo (a plant with small yellow flowers) and straw are used to fertilise the soil. 

Cellar

The cellar was colder than outside, but its smelt exactly the same as outside - scent of green, wood, wet stone and rain. 
There was a 100 years old cask in cellar - it's was about to broke in pieces, but still there protecting their wine, along with some small stainless steal tanks. 

100+ years old cask 

Wines

I tasted four reds, including my friend's wine "Vertixe" and one white wine. 
Boss's hidden treasure "white wine"

There were many famous journalist, judges and bloggers said to the boss "This is an amazing wine, you should sell it. You will be a wine guru!" 
But the boss replies as such,

 "If you want this wine, you can drink as much as you want, you are my guest. But I will never sell this wine to make me rich or famous!"

I felt in love with this white - 100% fermented grape juice. 

It was fermented, but it's so clean, smooth, integrated. 

This wine is made by Boss to accompany his everyday meals. 

The wine is made with Jerez, Godello and Dona Blanca. 

Everything is "0" - SO2, Clarification, finning, acidification, chaptalisation. 

Unique orange colour, clean nose with hint of oxidation. It's attack is juicy, sappy, down-to-earth. 

Young red

Lovely concentration of fruit, fresh and well balanced. 

It shows personality of the soil, grapes, climate of the area and grape producer. 

Traditional taste but charming. Red fruit, balanced tannins and matches perfectly with light tapas (Beside the wine glasses,  home made cured ham, chorizo, salchichón (salami) and bread were served.

From left; young red, special edition who sh was produced for their daughter's wedding, oak aged red and Vertixe of Orly Lumbreras. 

The white wine

Winery San Mamed

D.O. Rieira Sacra - Quiroga - Bibei sub zone. 

Owns total 3.5ha of vineyards on river Sil's river bank. 

Total production 20.000 bottles per year.