Celler Frisach, Corbera de l'Ebre

Who is Celler Frisach?

Celler Frisach is owned and operated by the Ferré family, who has been growing grapes in Corbra de l’Ebre (D.O. Terra Alta, South East of Catalonia) over 200 years.

Francesc, the eldest son of the family leads this project from 2005.

Why I like Celler Frisach?

Because I can see that the family and Francesc are working very hard to show its origin Corbera de l’ebre in wine. Its nature, extreme climate, Panal soil and people are all blend and make Frisach’s wines colourful and dynamic.

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Origin - Corbera de l’Ebre, Terra Alta

D.O. Terra Alta is located in the west end of Catalonia province and makes border between Catalonia and Aragon municipalities.

When I visited Frisach for the first time, Francesc took me to the old village of Corbera which is on right behind the new village.

No one lives in the old village, since it was devastated by airstrikes during Spanish Civil war (1936-1939). The new village is just under the old village because people could see what would happen when they disobeyed the Spanish government leaded by Franco. Today, the old village is reformed a small art gallery. In every corners, there is a piece of art dedicated to the peace in order to remember the cruelty and sadness that the war brought to the village and its people.

Frisach’s top red “Sang de Corb” is homage of the village and its history. The wine is made with Vernatxa Negre and Carinyena. Sang = blood of Corbera. The wine is dedicated to the people who suffered and had terrible experience during the war. The blood of people of Corbera.

A part from the old and new village, there is a on Iberian ruin outside the village. It used to be a co-working space for Iberian people, who was living before Romans.

Corbera del Ebre has lost its importance and life after the war. The family’s aim is to recover and re-vive the village and area.

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Francesc Frisach

Francesc, son of school teacher and vine-grower, is fighting to protect the village and its identity. He follows organic farming method and partially biodynamic philosophy. He selects clone of traditional grape type from his old vineyards, such as Vernatxa Gris, Vernatxa Blanc and plants in his now vineyards. Francesc describes himself “grape-grower (vigneron)”, but not winemaker despite the fact that his wine La Foradada is selected one of the six “The Essential Wines” by Jon Bonne (“The Insider’s Guide to Orange Wine”). Frisach family has been caring their vineyards, nature of Corbera and producing high quality grapes over generations. Francesc confirms that the fundamental of making quality wine is growing healthy and balanced grapes. Family owns total 20ha of farm. Main variety is “Vernatxa”, in local language and Garnacha / Grenache internationally.

“I am a son of Corbera. The land scape, air, people and the history of Corbera are in my wine.”

Francesc is restless person. He looks after his family vineyards, makes wine, promotes his wine and is always thinking how to protect the history and call attention to his village. Because he loves his place, people and its biodiversity .

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Wines

Celler Frisach sends you clear message through wines - “Corbera”

L’Abrunet white, rose and red are blend of grape varieties and vineyards. White is blend of Vernatxa Blanc, Vernatxa Gris. But family harvest 50% of Vernatxa blanc in July and 50% in the end of September in order to combine fresh aroma and happiness and reopen fruit aroma and structure.

I had a chance to taste L’Abrunet Red 2018 from a tank and it was amazing. Pushed up to the next league. The problem of wines from Terra Alta is alcohol and balance. Terra Alta means High Land in Catalonian language. Hot and dry summer and cold and dry winter. Two strong winds hit the village constantly; cold wind from Pyrenees in autumn and winter and dry - hot wind from Sahara desert in summer.

Naturally sugar (alcohol) level gets high and easy to loose fresh aroma. Traditionally wines of Terra Alta was use to make a wine more structured and powerful. This year, Francesc made this red like rose, which mans very short maceration just before fermentation. The colour of the wine is lovely purple red and aroma of summer berries. On palate, it’s fresh and well balanced. “You will finish a bottle without noticing it. Because it is so fresh and calmed. If you used to drink a bottle of wine with your friends, now you will open two”.

My favourite wine is La Foradada. This white wine is made like red wine, which means the juice is fermented with skin. This type of wine is called Brisat in Catalonian language, orange wine in English, and it is a traditional wine making style in Tarragona area. Due to a long skin contact, the tannin of grapes is extracted more in wine and that protects wine from oxidisation. La Foradada is made with 100% Vernatxa Blanc and without additional SO2. Lovely citric (mandarine) and tropical fruit, structure and clean on palate. I think the personality of Corbera (Terra Alta), such as ripen fruit, structure, freshness from soil and altitude, is very well expressed in this wine.

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Vernatxa Gris

There are only 3ha of Vernatxa Gris in Terra Alta and Frisach family owns 2,5ha of this. Vernatxa Gris is a pink skin grape and it shows very pale colour of wine. This grape variety is grown in South France, Emporda and Westend of Tarragona. It is not a mayor grape type of anywhere, however there are some good wine producers who are showing a special interests in this grapes for its potential and unique aroma.

The family bought this 50 years old vineyards, the highest point of Terra Alta from an old farmer who was about to take all the vines off and sell the land to someone. Because he was too old to look after the vineyard.

The plot is located about 450m above sea level, right beside the windmills to generate electricity - altitude and strong wind; very Corbera.

The soil type is Panal. The lower layer is calcareous + clay and top soil is sand brought by the two winds; one from the Pyrenees and another one is from Sahara desert. The sand soil is a key factor of freshness and expressive aroma and the second soil conserves humidity and keeps the vines alive under such an extreme climate.

Francesc produces a special wine with this grape. Vintage 2016 was sold exclusively to Canadian importer. Vintage 2017 was blended to 3 Porcs, because there weren't enough grapes to make a single grape wine. Vintage 2018 seems amazing. Pale and soft pink colour, balanced, humble but with strong personality.

I personally enjoy tasting pink skin grapes, such as Cartoixa Vermell (Xarel.lo Vermell) of Penedes, Garnatxa Gris and Carinyena Gris. It is very difficult to find single grape wine of these varieties. In order to make wine with personality with these grapes, you need control its yield and keep it really low. Otherwise the wine will be blent and watery. However, when the grape is grown under a good condition, wine shows exotic flavour and lovely colour.

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Celler Frisach has partnership with Uncharted wines (UK) and Winelab (Ireland).

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Celler Tuets

100% Grapes from Organic farm in Tarragona. 0 intervention, 0 +SO2

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I met Albert, te owner and winemaker of celler Mas Tuets through his friend. He is also winemaker and produces unique and authentic wines in DO Alella (a tiny appellation belongs to Barcelona). On the way to is cellar from his vineyards, he said “so are you looking for a natural wine from Tarragona (out of blue)?” I said “not particularly, but why?” He went “well, I have a friend who makes a natural wine in Tarragona area. His farm is on top of a beautiful mountain. He is a good friend of mine and his wine is unique. Last year he decided to bottle wine with his own label, without any planning or marketing research. Then he bottled over 10,000 bottles… Well you never know”… Must be a day dreamer, I thought. Until two years ago, they did not bottle any wine and suddenly he decided to make wine and he did. But how on earth he is going to sell all his wine?! 

I got contact of this unique person to meet and discover his world. 

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Albert Navarro - winemaker 

Albert is truly authentic person. You could describe him like “hippy”, but I think he is very natural, relaxed and get on with everything happens in his farm, day and life. Albert makes wine because winemaking is his happiness and joy. He wouldn’t do anything that makes him negative or upset. He is happy with his lifestyle. Looking after his vineyards and farm. Making his wine to share with his friends (and sell). Sometimes he goes for a walk in the mountain…  

I spoke to many professional people about him and I think everybody felt in love with him. He is pure, natural and a good person. 

I found it when he showed his farm, we were tasting his wines, and when he explains his philosophy. It seemed a little bit chaotic at the beginning, because his wine style changes every year, but he was trying his best to show what he was doing, what he wants to do and what he believes.Albert was very happy to show me around, taste all his wines of 2016 and 2017 (from tank) and explained to me how the wine was made and what he wanted to express. I think wine is honest and shows the winemakers personality. Albert is not from a famous winemaker family or does not have an excellent career. But he is working hard  to reach where he wants to go.

Farm Mas TUETS

Albert’s family owns 70ha of farm in Aiguamurcia village, inland of Tarragona province (South east of Catalonia region).The farm has belonged to the family from many many years ago. Albert does not know exactly when it started. The land is distributed by beautiful green woods, 22ha of vineyards, a cellar, and a small white cottage where he lives plus a small house for his mate “Pantxu” (pig). 

The farm is so quiet that I could only hear the birds singing and noise of wind. The farm is decorated with lovely natural colours; deep green of mediterranean herbs, which are almost same high as trees, purple and pale pink of wild flowers and blue sky. 

Soil type is calcareous with clay. 

The altitude is 560-600m above sea level, so the air is cool and fresh. 

Aiguamurcia village is only 30km from Mediterranean sea and vineyards are oriented towards south, so every morning “marinada” (sea breeze) blows up and create a special micro climate; Summer is not too hot and winter is mild. 

Albert makes eight wines with his own grapes grown in 6-7ha out of the 22ha of the vineyards. His wine style does not have definition. Every wine is different; Brisat (orange wine), Carbonic maceration, with amphora, ancestral (finish alcoholic fermentation in bottle)…. 

The family has been following organic farming (it means nothing added) for long, long time. Since 6-7 years, the farm is certified by Catalonian government. He also practice partially biodynamic farming principals. He selects only the part he agrees with; the material should be accessible locally and makes sense in Mediterranean climate.   

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The pillar of his wine making is “nothing added or taken away”, just 100% grapes of his farm and zero intervention. Alcoholic fermentation with natural yeast, malolactic fermentation if it happens. No finning, no stabilisation, or filtering. He does not add SO2. He works (hard) in vineyards, just bare in mind that his farms is like natural reserve, but nothing in cellar. His aim is to help the wine expresses itself. 

TU-ETS means “YOU ARE” in Catalonian language. I think this is the perfect name of this farm and wines.

TOT

Blend of 7 different grapes of the farm -Parellada, Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, Chenin Blanc, Moscatell Alexandria, Syrah and Tempranillo. 

Elevage: All the grapes area harvested on the same day and blend. De-stemmed and through into a stainless steel tank.15h skin contact. 

It is pale like rose wine, but aromatic, savoury and long. Similar to Clarete of Bierzo, but more elegant.

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