Celler Tuets

100% Grapes from Organic farm in Tarragona. 0 intervention, 0 +SO2

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I met Albert, te owner and winemaker of celler Mas Tuets through his friend. He is also winemaker and produces unique and authentic wines in DO Alella (a tiny appellation belongs to Barcelona). On the way to is cellar from his vineyards, he said “so are you looking for a natural wine from Tarragona (out of blue)?” I said “not particularly, but why?” He went “well, I have a friend who makes a natural wine in Tarragona area. His farm is on top of a beautiful mountain. He is a good friend of mine and his wine is unique. Last year he decided to bottle wine with his own label, without any planning or marketing research. Then he bottled over 10,000 bottles… Well you never know”… Must be a day dreamer, I thought. Until two years ago, they did not bottle any wine and suddenly he decided to make wine and he did. But how on earth he is going to sell all his wine?! 

I got contact of this unique person to meet and discover his world. 

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Albert Navarro - winemaker 

Albert is truly authentic person. You could describe him like “hippy”, but I think he is very natural, relaxed and get on with everything happens in his farm, day and life. Albert makes wine because winemaking is his happiness and joy. He wouldn’t do anything that makes him negative or upset. He is happy with his lifestyle. Looking after his vineyards and farm. Making his wine to share with his friends (and sell). Sometimes he goes for a walk in the mountain…  

I spoke to many professional people about him and I think everybody felt in love with him. He is pure, natural and a good person. 

I found it when he showed his farm, we were tasting his wines, and when he explains his philosophy. It seemed a little bit chaotic at the beginning, because his wine style changes every year, but he was trying his best to show what he was doing, what he wants to do and what he believes.Albert was very happy to show me around, taste all his wines of 2016 and 2017 (from tank) and explained to me how the wine was made and what he wanted to express. I think wine is honest and shows the winemakers personality. Albert is not from a famous winemaker family or does not have an excellent career. But he is working hard  to reach where he wants to go.

Farm Mas TUETS

Albert’s family owns 70ha of farm in Aiguamurcia village, inland of Tarragona province (South east of Catalonia region).The farm has belonged to the family from many many years ago. Albert does not know exactly when it started. The land is distributed by beautiful green woods, 22ha of vineyards, a cellar, and a small white cottage where he lives plus a small house for his mate “Pantxu” (pig). 

The farm is so quiet that I could only hear the birds singing and noise of wind. The farm is decorated with lovely natural colours; deep green of mediterranean herbs, which are almost same high as trees, purple and pale pink of wild flowers and blue sky. 

Soil type is calcareous with clay. 

The altitude is 560-600m above sea level, so the air is cool and fresh. 

Aiguamurcia village is only 30km from Mediterranean sea and vineyards are oriented towards south, so every morning “marinada” (sea breeze) blows up and create a special micro climate; Summer is not too hot and winter is mild. 

Albert makes eight wines with his own grapes grown in 6-7ha out of the 22ha of the vineyards. His wine style does not have definition. Every wine is different; Brisat (orange wine), Carbonic maceration, with amphora, ancestral (finish alcoholic fermentation in bottle)…. 

The family has been following organic farming (it means nothing added) for long, long time. Since 6-7 years, the farm is certified by Catalonian government. He also practice partially biodynamic farming principals. He selects only the part he agrees with; the material should be accessible locally and makes sense in Mediterranean climate.   

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The pillar of his wine making is “nothing added or taken away”, just 100% grapes of his farm and zero intervention. Alcoholic fermentation with natural yeast, malolactic fermentation if it happens. No finning, no stabilisation, or filtering. He does not add SO2. He works (hard) in vineyards, just bare in mind that his farms is like natural reserve, but nothing in cellar. His aim is to help the wine expresses itself. 

TU-ETS means “YOU ARE” in Catalonian language. I think this is the perfect name of this farm and wines.

TOT

Blend of 7 different grapes of the farm -Parellada, Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, Chenin Blanc, Moscatell Alexandria, Syrah and Tempranillo. 

Elevage: All the grapes area harvested on the same day and blend. De-stemmed and through into a stainless steel tank.15h skin contact. 

It is pale like rose wine, but aromatic, savoury and long. Similar to Clarete of Bierzo, but more elegant.

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Cava de Paraje Calificado

What is Cava de Paraje Calificado? 

It is a new and very first qualification in Cava Industry that qualify PLOT (one part of the vineyards) by certain requirement. This qualification was launched in June 2016 and this months, finally, 12 cru have been qualified. 

Paraje means "an isolated space" in Spanish. 

It means one Spanish wine industry made an qualification of wines / cava related to its vineyards. 

 

Requirement?

- age of vineyards 10+ years old

- hand picked

- yield is >8000kg/ha in grapes and >48hl/ha in must (juice)

- cava and base wine should be fermented in their own cellar 

- 36+ months bottle ageing 

- brut (dosage maximum 12gr/l of sugar)

 

Which plot are qualified as Cava de Paraje Calificado? 

  • Turo d’en Mota - Recaredo (mediterranean climate, Catalunya)
  • Serral del Vell - Recaredo (mediterranean climate, Catalunya) 
  • Vinyes de Can Marti - Torello (mediterranean climate, Catalunya)
  • Vallcirera - Alta Alella(mediterranean climate especially close to the sea, Catalunya)
  • La Capella - Juve i Camps(mediterranean climate, Catalunya)
  • Can Prats - Vins el Cep(mediterranean climate, Catalunya)
  • Font de Jui - Gramona(mediterranean climate, Catalunya)
  • Terroja - Castellroig(mediterranean climate, Catalunya)
  • Can Sala - Freixenet (mediterranean climate, Catalunya)
  • La Pleta - Codorniu (mediterranean climate, Catalunya)
  • El Tros Nou - Codorniu (mediterranean climate, Catalunya)
  • La Fideuera - Codorniu (mediterranean climate, Catalunya)

Objective?

To show the potential of top quality Spanish sparkling wine made by traditional method.  

"Its price could be over 50 euros- as we could say Fórmula 1 of cava industry, that allow the winery to compete with the champions in the world. "

- President of Consejo Regulador del Cava, Pedro Bonet.

My understanding on "Cava de Paraje" is to express the origin and identity of cava - soil type, climate, vegetation, grape types etc...

Cava is a sparkling wines made with grapes that are grown in mediterranean climate. Grapes are fruity, mature and have high level of sugar. Thus normally its dosage level is low and domestic consumers (mainly Catalonian consumers) prefer Brut Nature (= zero dosage, sugar free). The personality of each cava should be more clear and easy to understand. 

However, there is a problem; There is no difference between a cava made with 100% estate grapes and cava made with supplied grapes or supplied base wine, or aged for 9 months and for 10 years. All of them are categorised in a same group, with is "Cava".

Maite Esteve, the president of winery El Cep explained to me her feeling about Cava de Paraje 

When I heard about Cava de Paraje for the first time,  I was so happy and really willing to qualified. Our plot Can Prats is 5ha our of 95ha of our vineyards. Prats stream runs through the area and this plot is like a show case of our estate.
one of the plot of winery El Cep

one of the plot of winery El Cep

Winery San Mamed

Where is Ribeira Sacra?

This D.O. (Denomination de Origen, Spanish appellation system) region is in province of Lugo, south east of Galicia. 
One of the most mythical and traditional vine growing region in Spain. 

Who's winery San Mamed? 

My friend Orly Lumbreras is producing his floral and succlent wine "Vertixe" collaborating with this lovely family owned winery. 

Winery San Mamed is owned and operated by family; Rosa and her husband Jose "the Boss", their daughter and her husband. 

The winery is located in a village called Salgeiro (Quiroga y Bibei sub-zone) near Monforte de Lemo. 

Just in a middle of mountain, as if it is avoiding to have a contact with city, noise and pollution.  

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Life style in Ribeira Sacra 

Rosa and Jose are still living in Adega (old cellar) - Their life style is traditional and simple, but very close to the nature of Ribeira Sacra area. Could be too traditional, but it is the life style of Ribeira Sacra. 

The family keeps their pig, chickens, vegetable garden - everything is auto-sustainable 

Their life is 100% 0 additives. No chemical smells or perfumes are present in their life. 

It is simple, clean and very close to the nature. 

 

Vineyards

It is mythic, silent. Only the sounds of river and birds can be heard. 

The family respects traditional vine cultivation system. 

Family grows only indigenous grapes, such as Mencia, Merenzao, Brancellao, Jerez, Godello...

All the vines are planted on very steep hillsides facing to the river Sil. 

the family do not allow to put caterpillar or cables to pull up boxes in their vineyards. They prefer to walk, carry and touch with their own hands. 

Old terraces of stones and granite and slate soil. Everything is stony here.  

Terraces are surrounded by cherry blossoms, wild flower and greens.  

No pesticide, herbicide or chemical substance have not been applied for long time. 

Some indigenous plants, such as topo (a plant with small yellow flowers) and straw are used to fertilise the soil. 

Cellar

The cellar was colder than outside, but its smelt exactly the same as outside - scent of green, wood, wet stone and rain. 
There was a 100 years old cask in cellar - it's was about to broke in pieces, but still there protecting their wine, along with some small stainless steal tanks. 

100+ years old cask 

100+ years old cask 

 

Wines

I tasted four reds, including my friend's wine "Vertixe" and one white wine. 
Boss's hidden treasure "white wine"

There were many famous journalist, judges and bloggers said to the boss "This is an amazing wine, you should sell it. You will be a wine guru!" 
But the boss replies as such,

 "If you want this wine, you can drink as much as you want, you are my guest. But I will never sell this wine to make me rich or famous!"

I felt in love with this white - 100% fermented grape juice. 

It was fermented, but it's so clean, smooth, integrated. 


This wine is made by Boss to accompany his everyday meals. 

The wine is made with Jerez, Godello and Dona Blanca. 

Everything is "0" - SO2, Clarification, finning, acidification, chaptalisation. 

Unique orange colour, clean nose with hint of oxidation. It's attack is juicy, sappy, down-to-earth. 


Young red

Lovely concentration of fruit, fresh and well balanced. 

It shows personality of the soil, grapes, climate of the area and grape producer. 

Traditional taste but charming. Red fruit, balanced tannins and matches perfectly with light tapas (Beside the wine glasses,  home made cured ham, chorizo, salchichón (salami) and bread were served.

From left; young red, special edition who sh was produced for their daughter's wedding, oak aged red and Vertixe of Orly Lumbreras. 

From left; young red, special edition who sh was produced for their daughter's wedding, oak aged red and Vertixe of Orly Lumbreras. 

The white wine

The white wine

 

Winery San Mamed

D.O. Rieira Sacra - Quiroga - Bibei sub zone. 

Owns total 3.5ha of vineyards on river Sil's river bank. 

Total production 20.000 bottles per year.