Winery San Mamed

Where is Ribeira Sacra?

This D.O. (Denomination de Origen, Spanish appellation system) region is in province of Lugo, south east of Galicia. 
One of the most mythical and traditional vine growing region in Spain. 

Who's winery San Mamed? 

My friend Orly Lumbreras is producing his floral and succlent wine "Vertixe" collaborating with this lovely family owned winery. 

Winery San Mamed is owned and operated by family; Rosa and her husband Jose "the Boss", their daughter and her husband. 

The winery is located in a village called Salgeiro (Quiroga y Bibei sub-zone) near Monforte de Lemo. 

Just in a middle of mountain, as if it is avoiding to have a contact with city, noise and pollution.  

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Life style in Ribeira Sacra 

Rosa and Jose are still living in Adega (old cellar) - Their life style is traditional and simple, but very close to the nature of Ribeira Sacra area. Could be too traditional, but it is the life style of Ribeira Sacra. 

The family keeps their pig, chickens, vegetable garden - everything is auto-sustainable 

Their life is 100% 0 additives. No chemical smells or perfumes are present in their life. 

It is simple, clean and very close to the nature. 

 

Vineyards

It is mythic, silent. Only the sounds of river and birds can be heard. 

The family respects traditional vine cultivation system. 

Family grows only indigenous grapes, such as Mencia, Merenzao, Brancellao, Jerez, Godello...

All the vines are planted on very steep hillsides facing to the river Sil. 

the family do not allow to put caterpillar or cables to pull up boxes in their vineyards. They prefer to walk, carry and touch with their own hands. 

Old terraces of stones and granite and slate soil. Everything is stony here.  

Terraces are surrounded by cherry blossoms, wild flower and greens.  

No pesticide, herbicide or chemical substance have not been applied for long time. 

Some indigenous plants, such as topo (a plant with small yellow flowers) and straw are used to fertilise the soil. 

Cellar

The cellar was colder than outside, but its smelt exactly the same as outside - scent of green, wood, wet stone and rain. 
There was a 100 years old cask in cellar - it's was about to broke in pieces, but still there protecting their wine, along with some small stainless steal tanks. 

100+ years old cask 

100+ years old cask 

 

Wines

I tasted four reds, including my friend's wine "Vertixe" and one white wine. 
Boss's hidden treasure "white wine"

There were many famous journalist, judges and bloggers said to the boss "This is an amazing wine, you should sell it. You will be a wine guru!" 
But the boss replies as such,

 "If you want this wine, you can drink as much as you want, you are my guest. But I will never sell this wine to make me rich or famous!"

I felt in love with this white - 100% fermented grape juice. 

It was fermented, but it's so clean, smooth, integrated. 


This wine is made by Boss to accompany his everyday meals. 

The wine is made with Jerez, Godello and Dona Blanca. 

Everything is "0" - SO2, Clarification, finning, acidification, chaptalisation. 

Unique orange colour, clean nose with hint of oxidation. It's attack is juicy, sappy, down-to-earth. 


Young red

Lovely concentration of fruit, fresh and well balanced. 

It shows personality of the soil, grapes, climate of the area and grape producer. 

Traditional taste but charming. Red fruit, balanced tannins and matches perfectly with light tapas (Beside the wine glasses,  home made cured ham, chorizo, salchichón (salami) and bread were served.

From left; young red, special edition who sh was produced for their daughter's wedding, oak aged red and Vertixe of Orly Lumbreras. 

From left; young red, special edition who sh was produced for their daughter's wedding, oak aged red and Vertixe of Orly Lumbreras. 

The white wine

The white wine

 

Winery San Mamed

D.O. Rieira Sacra - Quiroga - Bibei sub zone. 

Owns total 3.5ha of vineyards on river Sil's river bank. 

Total production 20.000 bottles per year. 

 

 

Daterra Viticultores - Laura & Alvaro

Daterra Viticultores - Laura & Alvaro 

 

Who is Daterra Viticultores? 

The winer was founded in 2014 by Laura & Alvaro in Manzaneda, a small & abandoned village in Lugo. Manzaneda is well known for skiing. 

Laura and Alvaro own and look after many small patches of old vineyards which are located in Ribeira Sacra area. 

 

 

Why they are so special? 

Laura is sensitive person. 

She does care the old vineyards which are orphaned and suffering with chemical products (mainly hercicide), those abadaned villages in Galicia, discontinuity of local tradition and future. 

When she describes an old vine, she calls it "my old lady".

When she describes her wines, she call them "my kids". 

Because she loves, care and feels what they try to express.

 

How Daterra Viticultores was born? 

Laura left her previous work in 2013 because she need to be in vineyards. She needed to be in nature, touching vines, looking after them rather than fighting agains pile of papers, legislation, controlling orders of materials... So she left.

 

She was about to leave Manzaneda village too, because she wanted to be close to her family, friends and she did not like stepping in a bar or restaurants that filled with just men....

She took sabbatical year and started walking in mountains where she used to work.

One day, she received a phone call from her friend - "Laura, could you do winter pruning of my aunty's vineyards? She is too old to go and we are too busy with our work. We will pay you out with grapes". 

She had plenty of time and she said yes.

It didn't take long until people started asking these "favours" for Laura  - She was pretty visible person; with her long rasta hair, she talks to vines, she was very good and quick. It was obvious that she know what she was doing.

In the end of summer, she got so many grapes from old vineyards that she needed start her new project.

"Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?"
"That depends a good deal on where you want to get to.""I don't much care where –""Then it doesn't matter which way you go." - Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland.

 

Re-vitalising old vineyards suffering from herbicide 

In Galicia, it is very rare to find a big plot of vineyards. 

Everything is divided in small patches and there is no minimum dimension. 

A family divides their small patch in three, if they have three children. Then they will divide it with number of their children. 

That's why map of vineyards in Galicia, specially rural area, is very complex.

Plus "family issues" make everything more complicated... 

But it is very clear the difference between "+Chemicals" "-Chemicals".

I could see invisible but clear line between them.

 

- Chemical soil is covers with grasses, plants, flower. Lovely green aroma. It's texture is soft like a sponge. Colourful, alive and gives me a good vibes. 

+ Chemical soil is just grey. Just nothing but white granary products on the soil. No life, no smell, no colour.

 

It takes many years to recover the vineyards which are suffered with pesticide and herbicide.

First step is compost application. Laura put a tiny bit of compost on the topo soil to see the vineyards are strong enough to absolve it.

If they can, increase the quantity.

Some of them reacts immediately, some of them takes more time. She observes and control the dose.

Then some little plants grows making tiny green patches in the grey soil.

 

It is easy to blame on person who apply chemical products on soil. But it is important to understand why that happened.

Migration.

Galicia has been suffering poverty and depopulation after the dictator ship which finished in 1976.

Young people needed to go to big cities to start new life.

Only old people stayed in rural area and many vineyards are located in mountain.

It is very tough to look after vineyards if you are old and if you are making no money with it.

They do not want sell their family vineyards for nothing either - Vicios circle. 

The easiest solution was chemical products.

Laura and Alvaro are following Permaculture viticulture based on tradition and old knowledge of Manzaneda, Galicia. 

 

vineyard in process

 

Life in Manzaneda village  

It seems like this village was still living in past.

Stunning location, silent and little bit melancholic...

 

Cellar 

Cellar is located in middle of the village. 

It is small but very beautifully reformed. 

She selects chestnuts barrels and French oak barrels. 

barrels made with chestnut wood

Wines 

DaTerra Viticultores produces single vineyard wines and some blends.

Their aim is to transmit potential and personality of each plots in bottle.

 

Instagram @Mayu_Miller

Instagram @Mayu_Miller